Different color profiles for different clients

Started by baker7, May 16, 2016, 10:47:49 AM

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Joe

Good luck finding a color expert that isn't expensive. No idea really. Ask your plate vendor or ink supplier. They may be able to recommend someone. They might even have someone they can send out to help you.
Mac OS Sonoma 14.2.1 (c) | (retired)

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baker7

Quote from: Joe on May 25, 2016, 08:26:04 PMGood luck finding a color expert that isn't expensive. No idea really. Ask your plate vendor or ink supplier. They may be able to recommend someone. They might even have someone they can send out to help you.
That's how we ended up with this mess.. we hired the color guy from our ink supplier.   :rotf:

Joe

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DigiCorn

There's a couple of guys you might find on LinkedIn that travel. Terrance Wyss and Lou Prestia. There's a guy from Chicago or Seattle that works for Heidelberg that fingerprints a press like no one's business, but I can't remember his name... Mark something German, I think. It's all a little spendy but less than losing customers or constantly reprinting jobs.
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DCurry

#124
There's a guy on another forum named Mike Adams from Correct Color (http://correctcolor.org) who really knows his stuff. I doubt he's cheap, but I'd hire him based solely on what I've read in his posts.

Also, I have a plate reader I'd sell. I can't remember the particular model, but I'll check tonight when I go home.

**edit**
I looked at the Correct Color website and see he deals more with the proofer side of things than the press, but it still might be worth contacting him and explaining your situation to see if it's something he can handle.
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Farabomb

After seeing your curve, I know why you're hungover. Is there a giant bottle of jack in the watercooler because there needs to be.

The color guy should be sentenced to a death of a thousand cuts. Any money you paid should be refunded. It's too early for me to read all that but I did find a video of your press running.

https://youtu.be/-LFLV47VAbI
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Joe

OK after thinking some more and looking at your calibration curve some more I think you can fix it...

In your screen shot shown below...where I have added the red line is a gray dotted line. That line is a linear plate. Now look where your calibration curve is at. All I can gather from that is you must be correcting the shit out of the files to make them very heavy to look good on the Mutoh and then this calibration curve is knocking the shit out of your corrections to get back to level the press can handle.

Do you have a RIP hooked to the Mutoh or are you just proofing them straight from Photoshop via File==>Print? Give us a screen grab of your print settings if you are printing from Photoshop.

What kind of corrections are you doing in Photoshop to the files? I think you said you mainly use Curves. My guess is you are making the files heavier in Photoshop. If you are doing a curve move like the one shown in the 2nd screen shot than your calibration curve is basically undoing this correction. Only not in a  good way. But to fix this we need to know all profiles being used and how you handle these files through the entire workflow.
Mac OS Sonoma 14.2.1 (c) | (retired)

The seven ages of man: spills, drills, thrills, bills, ills, pills and wills.

Tracy

I'd give a screen shot of your photoshop color settings too
Edit/Color Settings

Do your new customers send files in RGB? converting to CMYK
would apply a profile in photoshop if there is one there. could be the difference in old and new custy's

see screen shot, I have a photoshop profile to reduce ink density, I have to go to RGB then CMYK to apply it
this is just a thought, you having to adjust for plates is the major issue I think

Joe

Quote from: Tracy on May 26, 2016, 08:21:14 AMI'd give a screen shot of your photoshop color settings too
Edit/Color Settings

Do your new customers send files in RGB? converting to CMYK
would apply a profile in photoshop if there is one there. could be the difference in old and new custy's

see screen shot, I have a photoshop profile to reduce ink density, I have to go to RGB then CMYK to apply it
this is just a thought, you having to adjust for plates is the major issue I think

Tracy, I would recommend going to LAB and back to CMYK instead of going to RGB and back to CMYK. You'll have a better black separation. Or better yet apply your profile to reduce your ink density via 'Edit==>Convert to Profile...'. From there it will do a CMYK <==>CMYK conversion and you never have to go to RGB or LAB.
Mac OS Sonoma 14.2.1 (c) | (retired)

The seven ages of man: spills, drills, thrills, bills, ills, pills and wills.

Tracy

Thanks Joe!
Did not know that!

I will make my new actions!!!

Tracy

Convert to profile gives me a 98% black, LAB to CMYK gives me a 100% Black from an 80,80,80,100 Black
so it ends up 63,52,51,98 and the LAB comes out with the 100% Black

I may go with the LAB to CMYK option
I will test with images

Thanks Joe!!
This may be so very helpful for me


Joe

Tracy I just tried 'Convert to Profile...' on an image with c80-m80-y80-k100 with this profile. It came out as c64-m54-y53-k100.
Mac OS Sonoma 14.2.1 (c) | (retired)

The seven ages of man: spills, drills, thrills, bills, ills, pills and wills.

Tracy

Interesting, could it be my profile?

Here's mine:

Joe

It could be the image used. If you are using a normal photo of a subject you may not be hitting the exact same spot that was a 100% before and now reading a 98%. I just used an image filled with an 80 80 80 100 background so there is no variance around the pixels. Also what is your sampling size for your eyedropper tool. Make sure it is set to 3 x 3 or 5 x 5 instead Point Sample.
Mac OS Sonoma 14.2.1 (c) | (retired)

The seven ages of man: spills, drills, thrills, bills, ills, pills and wills.

baker7

Sorry so busy here this morning.  Give me some time to reply the posts, but I have a question.  I finally got the print screen to work, so would this ICC error be a problem on Mutoh?  It always comes up when I go to rip and print.