UV

[Tracy]

I have a Spot UV with 2 spots and a metallic
I couldn't get the Spot UV not to trap to the metallic, tried everything in XMF
I put the Ink layer above the UV in indy and that worked, sheesh overprint should be overprint, dang it!

Also Have one with Foil instead of Metallic, I learned there is such a thing as Stampable UV
for when you have Foil overlapping the UV and not completely on the UV.
also learned the UVer's can Trap and choke depending upon what is needed!!!

This is where it gets stressful, trying to figure out the outcome of a job.
I would be under the bus if I don't figure this stuff out.
Just thought I'd share my freakout for the morning :laugh:

[andyfest]

Yes, stampable UV is required when foil is used on top or the foil would flake/peel. Good thing you did your research. 

For the past couple of years,in situations where we have we have both Matte UV and Spot Gloss UV on a job, we are flood-coating the sheet with Gloss UV on our coating unit using a coating blanket, then overprinting a spot Matte UV using a plate on a second pass. Prior to that we were using a flood coat of Matte UV (plate) and then using a cyrel plate to apply a spot Gloss UV on the coating unit. You could get everything done in 1 pass this way, but the cyrel plates were a pain to work with, expensive and hard to register. The newer 2 pass method works out cheaper and easier for us in the long run.

[Tracy]

Hey Thanks!
I didn't know you did UV in house, good to know!
I have questions sometimes

[Tracy]

Here's one, do you trap your UV?
Just found out today, my UVer makes it work, but wondering how it's done.

[DPSprint]

this is always good for me to read as well, we do a lot of special finishing, UV, foils, emboss etc.

OMG i havent heard that term for years... Cyrel plate! I can remember making them, waaaaaaaay back when i was an apprentice

[David]

Yes, stampable UV is required when foil is used on top or the foil would flake/peel. Good thing you did your research.

For the past couple of years,in situations where we have we have both Matte UV and Spot Gloss UV on a job, we are flood-coating the sheet with Gloss UV on our coating unit using a coating blanket, then overprinting a spot Matte UV using a plate on a second pass. Prior to that we were using a flood coat of Matte UV (plate) and then using a cyrel plate to apply a spot Gloss UV on the coating unit. You could get everything done in 1 pass this way, but the cyrel plates were a pain to work with, expensive and hard to register. The newer 2 pass method works out cheaper and easier for us in the long run.

We did the same at Quad, they called it a reticulating varnish. Saves you a butt load of time trying to register the two together, they never fit perfectly, this solved a ton of issues.

We did cyrels as well (a Dupont product), had to order them from other companies.
Then we went to Kodaks version which is called Flexcell. Basically the same thing. But we were able to do them in-house in just a couple of hours. This includes the imaging and curing time.

[andyfest]

Here's one, do you trap your UV?
Just found out today, my UVer makes it work, but wondering how it's done.

We do a lot of UV/foil/emboss jobs Tracey. We don't trap UVs. We floodcoat most of the time. As mentioned previously, if using a Matte/gloss combo, we flood the gloss and overprint a spot Matte on a second pass. We have done some work using a spot high gloss in-line varnish using a plate and it worked really well and had great gloss as well. If anyone wants the specs on the coatings we have successfully used, let me know and I'll post the specs I get from the press room. A lot of the time when we are utilizing foil stamping, we will "seal" the printed sheet with stampable AQ coat to prevent marking, then hit with the foil stamp, then finish the job with a flood of high gloss UV.

[Tracy]

That sounds like fun!

[Possum]

I don't know about fun, but it sounds gorgeous.